The preliminary to hair setting, which is the most im­portant step of all, because it gives you the foundation and line to work from, is the direction in which you comb your hair before starting the pin-curls. Examine each picture closely as we proceed step by step, and notice the direction taken by the hair around the crown.

The purpose of this combing is to create a more equal distribution of the hair by bringing forward some of the hair above the ears which would naturally tend to go back, thus exposing the ears. Combing it for­ward also makes the hair appear fuller.

In the finished hairdos throughout the book, notice, particularly around the crown, the direction taken by the straight hair before the pin-curl; here you will find a close similarity between this group of pictures and those of the finished hairdos. The next step is making the pin-curls.

PIN-CURLS

There are four different types of pin-curls. They are all good, and each one has its uses. The idea is for you to apply the needed type in the proper way

Pin-curl No. I

No. 1. The first type is wound in a series of rings, each ring being the same size. The curls will stand away from the head when combed out. This is the per­fect pin-curl for such hairdos as feather cuts, poodle cuts, or waves—or series of waves—of equal width.

PIN-CURL PRELIMINARIES

No. 2. This is wound so that the outside ring is the widest and the end is the smallest. The curl will open up like a window shade. This kind of pin-curl would be good for any hairdo that has to lie close to the head, and is the curl most hairdressers use.

 
Pin-curl No. 3

No. 3. This is the pin-curl that is shaped like a figure 6. It stays exactly as you made it and js excellent for Italian cuts and for many kinds of "spit" curls.

Pin-curl No. 4

No. 4. This pin-curl is almost like No. 3 which is shaped like a figure 6. The only difference between them is that the inside curve of the 6 makes a complete turn in this one. As you see in the sketch, the end of it is left fairly straight.

In deciding which type of pin-curl to use in your hair, allowance must be made for the amount of re­sistance to curl your hair may have. This resistance means that in some cases you may have to make the pin-curls in your hair slightly tighter or looser, and in some cases either more curls or fewer curls than shown in this book. You should always remember, however, that you should attempt to fix your hair with fewer curls than you think might be necessary, rather than more.

In making pin-curls it is, of course, not always necessary to make them fiat. If you are thinking in terms of a little extra height, make the pin-curls stand up, as illustrated in Chapter   9, picture 9.

When you insert a pin, try not to disturb the pin-curl; if you do move the curl, be sure it is done deliberately, with a purpose.
Never pull on a curl—that is, stretch the hair— whether it is a pin-curl or a permanent, because stretch­ing makes frizz, and frizz comes out fast.

When, while pin-curling the back hair, you have to decide where to change the direction of the curls, always change the direction behind one ear, preferably on the side where the part is. Picture 17, Chapter 1, will show you how this is done.

You will notice in many of the how-to pictures that the pin-curl is set directly over the ear. Be sure to fol­low this method where it is indicated..

Throughout the book you will notice that the section of hair, where you are getting shape before the curl, is always drawn in the direction of the pin-curl.

In curling the sideburn pin-curl, make sure it is not drawn back before it goes forward. (Sec Chapter 8, picture 11.)

Where you see waves along the top of the head, the hair has been cut into the waves, to hold the waves. They are not simply long strands of hair waved into place.

Certain hairdos shown in the book utilize two or more types. Here are rules that apply in making any type:

1. Speed is essential. The sooner you get the net on your hair, the more chances of success you have.
   
   
2. Before you begin the curling, apply setting lotion or beer.
   
   
3. Use as few pins as possible. Pin-curl first those parts of your hair that are least subject to your move­ments. As an example, don't curl the hair on the nape of your neck until the end because they would be dis­turbed by twisting motions of your head and neck as you make other curls. Leave until the last also those curls that are held most delicately in place with perhaps one pin or no pins.
   
   
4. The looser and softer the curl you want, the more hair goes into the strand. The tighter the curl you want, the less hair you wind at a time. You should never curl your hair so tightly, however, that it will look unsightly for a day or so after you have set it.
   
   
5. Pin-curl your hair where you want the actual curl to be in the finished  hairdo.  Placing the pin-curl a quarter of an inch above won't make much difference, but anything more than that will spoil the effect for which you are striving.
   
   
6. The way you pin your pin-curls makes the differ­ence between whether they stand up, lie down or have an extra shape. When you want one portion to stand away from your head, you have to pin the other portion close- to your head; and always place your pins at an angle which will help the direction of the curl.
   
   
7. Before you put a hairnet on, you can get that extra little line or shape illustrated in Chapter 1, picture 6, by running a pin lightly first in one direction and then the other, as you want the wave formed.
   
   When using a hairnet extreme care should be exer­cised in putting it on, because you may have set your hair with stand-up pin-curls and delicate lines here and there. Then you put the net on—and squash! To avoid this, be sure you put the net on just tight enough to hold the pin-curls in place but not tight enough to flatten them out.
   
   
8. In setting your hair, it's the little things you do without  seeming to  have  done  them that give  your hairdo the extra shape. The one thing which you must always attempt to do, whether it's for a new hairdo or for an old one, is to shampoo your hair and see if you can coax it to go into the hairdo for which it was cut, without  pin-curling  it.   Don't  be  discouraged  if you can't get it to fall into the perfect shape; for what you must recognize are the parts that do fall into perfect shape, which in many cases could mean that ninety per cent of the pin-curling could be eliminated. It is important that you always try to find how much you can do just by manipulation. Many times, while going through this little experiment, you may hit upon a com­pletely different hairdo that looks well on you—one for which you may even forsake the original hairdo.

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