What you no with the top of your head is the most important factor of your hairdo. The methods of arrang­ing the top hair are endless. Pictures of hairdos have been collected from other parts of the book for this chapter to spotlight some of the ways in which the top-of-the-head  hair can  be arranged.

The pictures are classified in three groups: center parts, no part and side parts. I want you to observe carefully how the slight variations either add width or height, and in some cases both. You will note how in even the flattest of hairdos some height is given by an upward  line  or curve.

In ninety-nine per cent of all these top treatments, not only is there an upward lift but a forward line as well. By forward I mean that there is a slight projection of the hair over the forehead. Picture 13 (page 102) is an example of this. The forward line always tends to shorten the nose. Though these pictures show mainly full-lace views, any of these hairdos when seen in pro-file will show the slight bulge over the forehead—some­times no more than a thirty-second of an inch, at other times as much as a half-inch. Don't ever forget this rule.

In short, regardless of whether you wear your hair forward or back, the top of your head is a factor which must be considered by itself.

THE CENTER part:  Pictures  1-6

When deciding what to do with the top of your head, remember that anyone can wear a center part, anyone can wear a side part, anyone can wear no part. The part is simply the axis on which the hairdo revolves.

Using a center part is not subject to any restrictions. Contrary to the general belief, a woman does not have to be a classic beauty to look well in this style. The only considerations to bear in mind when choosing a center part are: are you going to give the top of your head a great deal of height; are you going to keep the top flat; or are you going to give the top of your head some width?

A combination of any two of these three things can also be used. You can keep the top of your head flat and bring out some width, or you can keep the top high and also bring out width.

Throughout this book, wherever I have shown the center part, you will notice that sometimes the curls are made right up close to the part, to give height. Sometimes the hair is simply shaped and combed into a higher direction to add height. At other times the curls are made away from the part with a slight comb­ing up of the hair to give height. This last method lends a maximum of width with a minimum of height.

Basically the same hairdo, observe how some give the wearer a great deal of height directly beside the part, as in picture I, while others are Hatter right next to the part. Picture 6 is a profile view of a center part; notice how the bulge comes forward.

SIDE parts: Pictures 7-12

The side on which you part your hair has no bear­ing on changing the shape of your lace. Use the side which will cause your hair to stand up more.

You may have found that when you part your hair on one side it will lie down Hatter, making it difficult to give the hair that upward line so necessary to most faces. While your hair is wet, first part it on one side, comb your hair to the other side, and see if it tends to have a lift above the forehead. If that side doesn't have it, part it on the other side and do the same thing. One of them is sure to have it.

The most popular side part for height is one that starts low at the side and goes up toward the crown, as in picture 9. To test whether or not your hair is parted at the correct angle, look straight-on at your mirror, after you've given your hair the necessary lilt. If you don't see the part (as in picture 7), it is correct.

         
no part: Pictures 13-18

A hairdo with no part gives your lace the most length plus width as illustrated in picture 15. Notice in picture 13 an extreme forward bulge of the hair which shortens the lace.

 13

bangs or frills: Pictures 19-21

Bangs or frills can do all sorts of pleasant things for the face and features, depending on how they are styled. They dramatize the eyes, deepening their color. They can soften a thin or sharp face; they camouflage a forehead that is too high or too low for your liking.

If your face is short, so that you feel you cannot cut its length further by wearing frills or bangs, I offer these examples of how they can be worn. Notice in picture 21 how a perfectly straight bang has a slight bulge be­fore coming down over the forehead curving at the corners, also adds length.

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